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Shiseido – Feminite du Bois

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Shiseido – Feminite du Bois – A Twilight Walk Through an Enchanted Forest

feminite

When encountering new fragrance releases, I am often tempted to “edit” the formula to suit my liking. A little oakmoss here, a touch of civet there and voila, the fragrance would be perfect. With the exception of certain houses which continue to produce thoughtful, quality fragrances, the current “race to release” phenomena has resulted in a number of momentary fragrances which are not likely to withstand the test of time, let alone the next marketing launch. It is during these times that I re-trench and seek out those golden standards who await me like so many old friends.

Even more frustrating is the alternate scenario: perfumes so sublime as to be nearly mythical in their compositions which mysteriously vanish from the shelves, driving us to scour the dark corners of the internet to seek out lost treasures. One of these treasures (of which I will freely admit to having a secret horde) is Shiseido’s Feminite du Bois. For our French speakers, and those who do not mind reading subtitles, here is Serge Lutens himself discussing the reformulation issued under his brand name.

Launched in 1992 as a collaboration between Christopher Sheldrake, Pierre Bourdon and Serge Lutens this groundbreaking scent ranks highly in my list of fragrance perfection. And yet… I cannot help but wish for one tiny change. While the name Feminite du Bois aptly describes the perfume’s highly successful and innovative transformation of cedarwood into a beguiling feminine scent, the name does not in any way prepare you for the magic and beauty of this composition.

Experiencing Feminite du Bois for the first time is much like a twilight walk through an enchanted forest. The fragrance opens with a dusky scent of spices, an inviting delicate breeze of cardamom, ginger and cinnamon, beckoning you deeper into the forest. The dark quality of these opening notes is rendered in a shadowy manner, a gentle whisper of the exotic wonders that await you.

As you make your way slowly through the warm dark opening notes, you suddenly smell light blossoms of orange, violet, and rose on the breeze, each coming together to form an impression of tiny flowers carving out a space in the forest floor. In keeping with Shiseido’s minimalist aesthetic, the floral notes are subtle and silky. Moving closer in, you notice a small gathering of trees, each bearing perfectly ripe peaches and plums, the fragrance of which catches on the breeze and makes its way to you. Animals are drawn to the soft sweetness as well, and you detect a soft honey note and remnants of beeswax as its inhabitants eagerly seek out the source of the sweetness. All of these scents here in the quiet of the forest lull you into a light dream and you stand for a moment, just breathing in the beautiful warmth, when suddenly you see her, the Lady of the Wood.

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She has stood there all along, watching you as you made your way through the dusky paths, silently beckoning you with the warmth of woods and the slight musky wetness of the forest so as not to startle you with her presence. As you stand there beholding her, you are awed by her stealth, subtlety and beauty, and you are without words. For she is a wonder to behold.

Spicy Woods

Notes: cedarwood, orange blossom, peach, honey, plum, beeswax, clove, cardamom, and cinnamon.

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Lancôme – La Vie Est Belle

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Lancôme – La Vie Est Belle

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I anticipated the release of La Vie Est Belle with great excitement. It was developed by Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, a formidable team. Iris is one of my favorite notes for the ghostly, earthy, and chilling aspect it lends to perfumes and La Vie Est Belle was touted as “the first ever iris gourmand”. While there are other perfume houses that could dispute that claim, as an iris lover, this sounded profoundly promising. Nothing surpasses the beauty or elegance of iris in Guerlain’s Apres L’Ondee, Chanel’s 28 La Pausa or Serge Luten’s Iris Silver Mist. Yet despite numerous attempts and testing on blotter and skin alike, I have yet to detect any discernable iris note.

La Vie Est Belle created a bit of a dilemma for me. Perhaps I have been lulled by the fragrance’s cheerful demeanor or predictable plotline. Yes, La Vie Est Belle is well-made, more-so than many of the numerous fragrances I pass on the fragrance counters. And as must be the case with a perfume that seems to loosely follow the formula of the more seductive Angel by Thierry Mugler and the more refined Coco Mademoiselle, La Vie Est Belle is pretty. Perhaps that is where the problem lies. La Vie Est Belle feels like the pretty girl at the party who is quite nice but perhaps a bit lacking in intellect. She smiles so sweetly, perhaps a little too sweetly, I want to like her, but after speaking to her for five minutes I am terribly bored. When I look around the room, there seem to be several girls who look quite a bit like her, but perhaps have a more sultry or rebellious side that maintains my interest.

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The fragrance moves along the fruit-flowers-patchouli track, hitting you all the while with a gourmand accord of  vanilla, tonka and praline. Had the iris note been truly prominent, this fragrance would have stood a greater chance of achieving olfactory immortality. Without it, it’s just another pretty face in the fragrance crowd. The fragrance does possess an incredible sillage and lasting power however as my blotters were still going strong the next day. La Vie Est Belle is a nicely-done fruitchouli, a bit overpowering and forgettable for my taste, but it did win the popular vote in Fragantica‘s 2012 community poll. If you don’t have any fragrances in this genre and Angel and Coco Mademoiselle are too bold for you, La Vie Est Belle may work for you.

 

Gourmand

Notes: Iris pallida, iris aldehyde, jasmine, orange blossom, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean, praline, black currant and pear.

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Elie Saab – Le Parfum

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Elie Saab – Le Parfum

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Each morning, as I prepare for the day ahead, I run through an inner dialogue to determine what scent will accompany me through the day. I live in a warm climate which does not offer much temperature variation or seasonal variety, but I am still drawn to certain scents at certain times of the year. I often find however that my selection is based on my mood. Am I introspective or bold today? Do I have to make a presentation at work for which I want to feel confident? Perhaps it is raining and I crave the fragrance version of comfort food. I go through a similar ritual in the evenings when I return home in order to select a second fragrance for the evening. The converse is also true. There are certain fragrances which have the ability to impact my mood instantaneously, like a liquid mood-enhancer and I am careful to keep lots of these gems around.

I had been eagerly awaiting the release of Elie Saab’s fragrance which made its debut in mid-2011, though it took it a bit longer to reach my local Nordstrom for sampling purposes. Elie Saab, a Lebanese designer, is known for his elegant and romantic haute couture. His dresses feature beautiful, intricate lace and sweeping silhouettes, reminiscent of eras gone by. His designs have received numerous honors and he has distinguished himself as an established designer for various royals including the Crown Princesses of Sweden and Greece, as well as Queen Rania of Jordan. While beautiful execution in fashion is no guaranty of success in other mediums, certain houses such as Chanel and Dior have historically produced equally spectacular and memorable fragrances, so I had reason to hope.

Press releases revealed that the fragrance itself would be encased in a beautifully unpretentious crystal orb suggestive of a diamond, with the equally simple moniker of Le Parfum. The fragrance, created by Francis Kurkdjian who has designed for Narciso Rodriguez, Guerlain and Kenzo, was described as a flowery-woody composition featuring orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli, and rose honey. I tend to enjoy woody compositions, as well as several of Kurkdjian’s creations, so all seemed to point to an elegant, warm floral. In fact, I fantasized that the fragrance would be the equivalent of the dress below.

esaab

The opening started well enough with a fresh orange blossom that seemed like familiar territory. As I walked around the fragrance department in Nordstrom looking for a sample vial, I began sensing a pleasant swelling of jasmine and rose, leading me to believe that this fragrance might have potential. My excitement mounted. I filled up my vial and continued on my way. After about ten minutes, I started feeling irritable and almost angry for no reason whatsoever. I rechecked my wrist and there it was: a blast like a wounded trumpet played by an amateur at point-blank range. This assault bore no relation to the fragrance’s opening but definitely heralded its end. Suddenly, the beautiful crystal orb seemed more like a grenade I had pulled the pin from and forgotten about it until it exploded in my pocket.  I have read that the dry-down features a nice clean musk which I might have enjoyed, but this one did not make it past the next ladies’ room sink.

Since I am by no means infallible, and since Elie Saab Le Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian won the 2012 French FIFI awards for Best Feminine Fragrance, Best Feminine Bottle, and best Feminine Media Campaign, you may wish to experience it for yourself at Nordstrom and Bloomingdales. I will stick to the creations Kurkdjian releases under his own name, which are excellent.

Floral

Notes: orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli and rose.

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Knize Ten

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Knize Ten

eau-de-toilette-knize-ten-125-ml-spray

I have found that some of my most passionate and enduring olfactory affairs have started out on an intense note along the lines of “what IS that?” While I am by no means drawn to flash, there are those fragrances whose openings are so unique as to create an indelible imprint, one that I often crave to smell again and again once the initial blast has subsided and the more delicate drydown commences. Like the sultry stranger who catches your eyes across the room with a smoldering glance, only later to become your devoted and domesticated bedfellow, so it is with Knize Ten.

Knize Ten is one of several fragrances introduced by the Knize fashion design house out of Austria. The fragrance made its debut in 1925 and is still in circulation. The current version is by most accounts fairly true to the original vintage version, making it a gem among fragrances. Indeed, even the clean and simple design of the bottle and crisp black and white packaging are both timeless and supremely modern. While Knize Ten (roughly pronounced kuh-knee-shuh) features the byline of “The Gentleman’s Toilet Water”, it is largely a misnomer, since it is not particularly “gentlemanly”, nor does it suffer from poor staying power. In fact, the opening notes of this reference leather fragrance are slightly reminiscent of a leather bomber jacket strutting around a gas station. Small wonder then that this was rumored to be the signature fragrance of none-other-than James Dean.

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Knize Ten starts out with a slightly bitter citrus note of bergamot and petitgrain (derived from the leaves of the bitter orange tree), which to my nose has a greener smell further enhanced by a savory note of rosemary.  The opening is potent and somewhat suggestive of gasoline. While this may sound off-putting, it is this very unique introduction to what ultimately becomes a warm and somewhat powdery vanillic leather, that I find most appealing. While the dry heart note is largely woody, for me the most prominent notes are a sharp patchouli and green jasmine which reinforce the rich leather aspect. While the Knize Ten “gentleman” may come on rather strong initially, he quickly shows his soft side. The sharpness of the leather is smoothed out by orris and deepened by ambergris and castor which lend it a slightly animalic, body smell. While François Coty and Vincent Roubert designed this as a men’s fragrance to accompany the elegant and slightly off-beat bespoke designs of Knize, this can easily be worn by a woman in the style of a Tabac Blond. The bracing opening and softening drydown feel like a lingering embrace from a not-so-gentlemanly gentleman.

James Dean

Ultimate Leather

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, orange, petitgrain, rosemary, geranium, rose, cedar, orris, carnation, cinnamon, orange blossom, sandalwood, leather, musk, moss, patchouli, ambergris, castoreum and vanilla.

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