Tag Archives: Floral

Hermès – Iris Ukiyoé

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Hermès – Iris Ukiyoé

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Irises – Katsushika Hokusai

Jean-Claude Ellena is without a doubt the reigning champion of diaphanous florals. In this, the 9th fragrance from the exclusive Hermessence line, he draws his inspiration from the watery minimalism of Japanese Ukiyoé prints to create an aquatic floral which seems to hover just out of focus, suspended in the air.

The biggest surprise about Iris Ukiyoé is that it smells nothing like the carrot-like, orris root fragrances which many of us are so fond of, like this, this and this. Instead, Ellena focuses on the scent of the iris flower itself, with all of its vegetal lightness. In fact, after the orange blossom opening disipates, Iris Ukiyoé smells more like a true-to-life rendering of Muguet à la Guerlain.

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Being a lover of iris’s rooty goodness, I must admit to feeling a sense of slight disappointment at the fragrance’s development, especially given the price tag of the Hermessence line. After repeated testing however the beauty of the fragrance revealed itself, layer by gossamer layer. Now a hint of rose, next a green note reminiscent of cucumbers and green tea, and finally the soft floral veil that Ellena is so adept at.

While the fragrance possesses a sylphlike character, it does possess a subtle tenacity which I find intriguing. Just when I am ready to criticize the fragrance for vanishing, a closer look reveals her clinging to me, beckoning me to a closer inspection.

Floral

Notes: Mandarin, Orange Blossom, Iris, Green Shoots, Green Watery Notes.

Lubin – Cuir de Russie

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Lubin – Cuir de Russie

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Lubin is one of the oldest perfume houses in continual existence. The company was founded by Pierre Francois Lubin in 1798, when he began creating scented products for members of high society and notoriety alike. Lubin, like Guerlain, was esteemed with recognition from the Imperial Court of the Bonapartes and all the crowned heads of Europe thereafter. The firm was well-known for their perfumes and bottles alike, with flacons designed by Julien Viard and Maurice Depinoix and special, luxury editions from Baccarat. The firm created a strong presence in the United States commencing in the 1830s and were especially well-received in the South where many families traced their origins back to France. The firm remians in existence today and Olivia Giacobetti is the current fragrance designer.

Of the four Cuir de Russie’s reviewed, Lubin’s interpretation of the leather theme is perhaps the most literal. I was fortunate enough to come upon a vintage sample courtesy of a fellow collector. The stopper on the bottle had been stuck for some time, allowing for good preservation of the perfume, which had condensed into an almost syrup-like consistency. After some careful engineering, the bottle finally revealed its beautiful contents.

The perfume’s opening had a medicinal, slightly hesperidic, herbal quality to it, alluding to perhaps some petitgrain and camphor notes. As the initial notes died down, the fragrance had an oily quality to it, reminiscent of fur. Based upon my first impression, I imagined that the perfume was going to be somewhat challening to wear, as it invoked visions of the oily fur of hides being prepared for leather production. Indeed, at first blush, I ascribed this perfume more for intellectual contemplation rather than actual use.

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Here however, the fragrance took a distinct turn. The heavy quality of the opening dissipated, leaving just a hint of spice in its wake. What this revealed was the mildest, most realistic and unadorned leather scent of the three. The Lubin Cuir de Russie has neither the rugged, birch-tar bite of the Guerlain, nor the aldehydic florals of the Chanel. It is purely gorgeous, buttery leather, the kind that would be used to make fine gloves for a woman’s hands. As the fragrance dies down, there is a very slight floral quality to it, as though the lovely kid gloves had retained the slightest hint of scent from the wearer’s perfumed wrist.

Having had the good fortune now to sample various vintage Lubins, the house has a singular style to all of its scents which conveys a subtle refinement that is simply intoxicating. Where Guerlain always strikes me as the House of Passion, and Chanel as the House of Beauty, Lubin’s scents possess a quiet intellectualism that I find very appealing in their subtlety. Lubin’s Cuir de Russie is no exception.

Leather

Notes: Hesperidic Notes, Camphor, Fur, Oil, Leather Notes, Floral Notes,

Elie Saab – Le Parfum

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Elie Saab – Le Parfum

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Each morning, as I prepare for the day ahead, I run through an inner dialogue to determine what scent will accompany me through the day. I live in a warm climate which does not offer much temperature variation or seasonal variety, but I am still drawn to certain scents at certain times of the year. I often find however that my selection is based on my mood. Am I introspective or bold today? Do I have to make a presentation at work for which I want to feel confident? Perhaps it is raining and I crave the fragrance version of comfort food. I go through a similar ritual in the evenings when I return home in order to select a second fragrance for the evening. The converse is also true. There are certain fragrances which have the ability to impact my mood instantaneously, like a liquid mood-enhancer and I am careful to keep lots of these gems around.

I had been eagerly awaiting the release of Elie Saab’s fragrance which made its debut in mid-2011, though it took it a bit longer to reach my local Nordstrom for sampling purposes. Elie Saab, a Lebanese designer, is known for his elegant and romantic haute couture. His dresses feature beautiful, intricate lace and sweeping silhouettes, reminiscent of eras gone by. His designs have received numerous honors and he has distinguished himself as an established designer for various royals including the Crown Princesses of Sweden and Greece, as well as Queen Rania of Jordan. While beautiful execution in fashion is no guaranty of success in other mediums, certain houses such as Chanel and Dior have historically produced equally spectacular and memorable fragrances, so I had reason to hope.

Press releases revealed that the fragrance itself would be encased in a beautifully unpretentious crystal orb suggestive of a diamond, with the equally simple moniker of Le Parfum. The fragrance, created by Francis Kurkdjian who has designed for Narciso Rodriguez, Guerlain and Kenzo, was described as a flowery-woody composition featuring orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli, and rose honey. I tend to enjoy woody compositions, as well as several of Kurkdjian’s creations, so all seemed to point to an elegant, warm floral. In fact, I fantasized that the fragrance would be the equivalent of the dress below.

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The opening started well enough with a fresh orange blossom that seemed like familiar territory. As I walked around the fragrance department in Nordstrom looking for a sample vial, I began sensing a pleasant swelling of jasmine and rose, leading me to believe that this fragrance might have potential. My excitement mounted. I filled up my vial and continued on my way. After about ten minutes, I started feeling irritable and almost angry for no reason whatsoever. I rechecked my wrist and there it was: a blast like a wounded trumpet played by an amateur at point-blank range. This assault bore no relation to the fragrance’s opening but definitely heralded its end. Suddenly, the beautiful crystal orb seemed more like a grenade I had pulled the pin from and forgotten about it until it exploded in my pocket.  I have read that the dry-down features a nice clean musk which I might have enjoyed, but this one did not make it past the next ladies’ room sink.

Since I am by no means infallible, and since Elie Saab Le Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian won the 2012 French FIFI awards for Best Feminine Fragrance, Best Feminine Bottle, and best Feminine Media Campaign, you may wish to experience it for yourself at Nordstrom and Bloomingdales. I will stick to the creations Kurkdjian releases under his own name, which are excellent.

Floral

Notes: orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli and rose.

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Chanel – 1932 Les Exclusifs

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Chanel – 1932 Les Exclusifs

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I was thrilled beyond description to receive a sample of the newest Chanel Les Exclusifs release from the lovely Isidora at the Chanel Bal Harbour boutique in South Florida. As I posted earlier here, there was much speculation over the past year regarding this fragrance and whether or not it would indeed be released to the public. Happily, it is now available in the standard 75 ml and 200 ml Eau de Toilette sizes from the Chanel boutiqes and online, via their website at Chanel.

According to information provided by Chanel, the fragrance was named to commemorate the release of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s first high jewellery collection. The nose behind the creation, Jacques Polge, took his inspiration from the collection and rendered it in Jasmine. In 1932, Europe was between two world wars and Amelia Earhart had completed the first transatlantic solo flight by a woman. The Great War fueled significant advances in aviation which would make commercial air travel a more distinct reality. What had once been a novel concept, now became a reality for the rich and elite. By the end of the era, known as the “Golden Age of Flight”, air transport would seem a necessity.

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Necklace from the original 1932 collection

As a result, people’s minds were on the skies. Caron launched En Avion in 1932 and Guerlain would release its Vol de Nuit one year later in 1933. No small wonder then that Chanel’s exclusive jewellery release would be inspired by the heavens, with its falling meteors and constellations. Where Chanel had previously promoted faux glass jewelry to counteract the pretensions of the 1920s, her flight to quality following times of strife reflected her pursuit of the “greatest value in the smallest volume“. It is this insistence on quality that is one of the hallmarks of Chanel perfumes and 1932 is certainly no exception. The fragrance is an unique and inspired creation, highlighting the different aspects of Jasmine, one of Chanel’s signature flowers.

1932 opens with a sweet citrus accord, a melange of orange and lemon notes which seem to float on the air. The aldehydes in the opening are not as effervescent as some of Chanel’s vintage creations, giving the fragrance a more modern feel. The fruity opening quickly gives way to a slightly spicy, green floral accord that calls to mind stems and juniper berries. While in theory, I thought the fragrance might head into the Chanel No 19 territory, the Lily of the Valley and subtle Hyacinth notes reminded me slightly more of Cartier’s Baiser Vole’s opening notes: sharp, bright and light, much like the brilliant collection of diamonds for which the fragrance is named, though more subtle and fruity than Mathilde Laurent’s 2011 creation.

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Diamond ring from the modern 1932 jewelry collection

If we imagine the green accords to be the outer casing of the Jasmine bud, as the fragrance develops, the rich and slightly indolic jasmine petals unfold, revealing a heart deepened by a slightly waxy rose and the slightest spice from geranium. Here the fragrance is at its most hypnotic, softly undulating, all the while wearing closer to the skin. While usually reserved for a basenote, I detect a coumarin note present throughout, giving the fragrance a sweet, hay-like note with just a touch of vanillic warmth.

What I found to be the most beautiful aspect of the fragrance was unfortunately the most fleeting. As the jasmine settled into a soft floral whisper on my wrist, a singular vetiver note  hovers in and out of focus, supported by the slightest hint of musk, as though a tiny drop of Chanel’s Sycomore had been allowed to penetrate the signature Chanel flacon. I can only imagine how lovely this combination of the palest jasmine with a touch of woods would be in a stronger concentration. Unfortunately, as flowers are ephemeral, so is 1932. As with some of the other Les Exclusifs, particularly 28 La Pausa, Jersey and Bel Respiro, the initially powerful sillage diminishes to a wisp of a fragrance that I long to experience again.

Many thanks to Isidora Kostic of Chanel for providing me with a sample. If you are in South Florida, I highly recommend visiting Bal Harbour’s Chanel boutique at 9700 Collins Avenue, where you can view and sample the entire Les Exclusifs line.

Fruity Floral Woody

Notes: Bergamot, petitgrain, lemon, lily of the valley, hyacinth, iris, rose, jasmine, vetiver, coumarin and musk.

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