Serge Lutens – Douce Amere

Posted on October 8, 2013 by Leah

Fall is without a doubt my favorite season. While we face the bitter regret of another summer passed, we can rejoice in the knowing that sweet times lie ahead in the coming months, where the endless holidays give us reason to unite with family and friends. That interplay which makes life interesting carries over to fragrance as well, where the juxtaposition of seemingly incongruous elements often creates something which is greater than the sum of its parts.

Christopher Sheldrake perfectly captures this duality in Serge Lutens’s Douce Amere, a 2000 fragrance which is only available outside the U.S. at present. Mention “oriental” and “Lutens” in the same sentence and no doubt Ambre Sultan will come to mind, but Douce Amere is one of Lutens’ most unique creations, despite not being his most well-known. On first sniff, it doesn’t smell like an oriental, nor does it smell much like a Lutens, as it features none of the velvety, viscous, jammy qualities many of his fragrances are known for. Douce Amere is instead like a pale green chiffon, light and sumptuous, but slightly synthetic in a deliciously elegant way.

mintextrawidechiffon

Douce Amere starts off with a blast of medicinal wormwood, a bitter green in the manner of Diptyque’s Eau de Lierre (in character only, the two smell nothing alike). The herbal concoction is lightened by a touch of mint, which is so subtle and elusive it seems to linger just out of reach. The green fairy, as absinthe was traditionally known, then spreads her glorious wings with subtle floral notes, tiare being the most prevalent to my nose, but maintains a largely anisic character throughout.

First bitter, then sweet, it’s absinthe of course.

As green as wormwood is grey, these two ideas tussle inside me… only to kiss and make up on the skin. Serge Lutens

Just when one imagines that the bitterness has taken hold, Douce Amere turns on the point of a knife into a soft, slightly powdery skin scent. A light musk, with a whisper soft woods, renders a delicate sweetness which speaks to some of chocolate. It serves to soften and sweeten the bitterness of the fragrance, but Douce Amere retains a light dry quality throughout which keeps it from becoming a true gourmand. While the two fragrances smell nothing alike, the combination of anise with subtle gourmand elements reminds me of the effect created by Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue, although that masterpiece possesses the furry, warm quality we generally associate with orientals, while Douce Amere does not.

Like many of the Lutens fragrances, Douce Amere has wonderful lasting power, but its sillage is much gentler, wearing more politely close to the skin than say Chypre Rouge. I enjoy the tension created by the transition between bitter and sweet, but find Douce Amere deliciously wearable, even in warm weather.

Notes: Absinthe, Cinnamon, Anise, Lily, Jasmine, Tiare, Tagette, Marigold, Musk, Cedar.

Etat Libre d’Orange

Posted on October 3, 2013 by Leah

Etat Libre d’Orange – Jasmin et Cigarette

It’s thrilling when a perfume unexpectedly captures our attention and makes us feel we cannot live without it. Whether it becomes an impulse buy or a carefully meditated purchase after spritzing through several decants, certain fragrances simply become part of us. What then for those fragrances which we eagerly anticipate, certain that they are destined to be love at first sniff, only to leave us indifferent or worse, running for the nearest sink?

Since I find jasmine an irresistable note, I had held out immense hope for Jasmin et Cigarette, released by the funky niche house Etat Libre in 2006. And in the way only a former smoker can truly know, there is something delicious about the smell of perfume intermingling with tobacco, forming a sort of third skin scent. And yet Jasmin et Cigarette left me completely flat.

The opening has a nice whiff of tobacco, which dies down to reveal a light, apricot-tinged jasmine which never ventures into the indolic territory (which is quite frankly the main reason I love jasmine, for that slight tinge of decay). I sniffed and waited for the curls of smoke (or at least tobacco) to waft up to my nose, but they never came. A bit of cherry smell from the tonka, but nothing more. I put my sample away for 6 months and tried again. Light jasmine, imperceptible smoke. Another six months – and yet my wait was in vain. Perhaps I have been ruined by the extremes of my collection, by the likes of A La Nuit and Guerlain’s Cuir de Russie.

For those of you who favor light florals and are looking for something with a light twist, this may be for you. As far as I am concerned, I am already planning my next love at first sniff.

Notes: Jasmin Absolut, Tobacco, Apricot, Tonka, Hay, Cedar, Amber, Musk

Diptyque – Philosykos

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Leah

Diptyque – Philosykos

I love the Diptyque line for its ability to marry earthy, natural scents with a refined minimalist elegance. Most of the house’s fragrances work equally well on a man or a woman, and Philsykos is no exception.

Rather than creating an uber-fruity, over the top syrupy fig, Diptyque seems to draw its inspiration from the tree as a whole. From the earthy bark and woody stems, right to the green and slightly dusty fruit. Like other Diptyque fragrances it possesses a fairly realistic green note, reminiscent of wet blades of grass and takes me back to childhood summers spent outdoors.

The drydown has Olivia Giacobetti written all over it, from the soft veiled layers of fig with coconut, with a gentle hint of sweetness which is never overpowering, even on the most humid of days. While Philosykos is a wonderful summertime scent, it works equally well in the winter months, a reminder of things to come. While I adore the extra sharp bite of the EdT, the EdP concentration is quite lovely, though perhaps a bit rounder than the original – think Sauvignon Blanc versus Chardonnay.

It’s astounding to think that this 1996 release is nearly twenty years old, but perhaps this timeless quality is what makes Diptyque fragrances so successful. Ironically, the Diptyque collection just showed up at my local Nordstrom’s, finally making this house available to a wider audience.

Woods

Notes: Fig Leaf, Fig, Coconut, Green Notes, Cedar, Woody Notes, Fig Tree.

Balmain – Ivoire

Posted on June 25, 2013 by Leah

Balmain – Ivoire

Elegant and polished like the keys of a piano, Balmain’s 1979 Ivoire perfectly captures the sensibility of its time and of the refined, luxurious fashions of its creator, Pierre Balmain. While the fragrance can go head to head with the big, bold and brash fragrances of the 1980s, it possesses an earthy quality characteristic of the 1970s. While the name Ivoire, French for ivory, conjures for many images of a big white velvety floral, Ivoire is positively green.

From the outset, Ivoire is dense and layered. On my skin, the fragrance does not unfold in the typical top-heart-base progression, rather it unleashes its depths all at once. Ivoire is green, herbal and floral, with a pungent, spicy warmth at its depth. And while the fragrance does take some twists and turns throughout the day, revealing bright citrus and hints of floral underpinned by galbanum, the warmth of oakmoss and musk is ever present. The drydown is a creamy, woodsy and slightly soapy pillow.

I have a small vintage bottle from the 1980s that I take out whenever I want to feel especially elegant in a confident, Chanel No 19-esque manner, so I was thrilled to see that Balmain had re-issued the fragrance in 2012. While perfumers Michel Almairac and Jacques Flori are certainly talented in their own right, the beauty of the original was unfortunately lost in translation due to restrictions on perfume materials. The re-issued Ivoire leans more toward a straight floral, and feels sharp and unbalanced without the richness that only true oakmoss and musks can bring. And while it does not possess the elegance of the original 1970s ads, the new marketing photos are a knockout.

Notes: green accord, galbanum, bergamot, lemon, aldehydes, lily of the valley, rose, hyacinth, jasmine, carnation, orris, orchid, geranium, cedar, musk, oakmoss, amber, raspberry and sandalwood.

Robert Piguet – Fracas

Posted on April 29, 2013 by Leah

Robert Piguet – Fracas

There are some fragrances which are love at first sniff, as though the scent satisfied some intense longing we never knew we had. And there are those which we struggle with, knowing conceptually that they are the stuff of legacy, but which we are nevertheless unable to embrace. While most would pass on a perfume that failed to capture their immediate attention, many perfumistas have confessed to a struggle with one classic or another until either the relationship ended, or a lifetime romance began. For me, it was Fracas.

Perhaps it was not the fragrance itself as much as it was tuberose, the heady white flower which when used injudiciously can evoke images of a Hawaiian luau. The name also befuddled me, as fracas implies a noisy conflict or quarrel and I found none of that here. I had a vintage bottle which I kept for reference purposes mostly, taking it out every now and then to re-test, which I did regularly over the years. Perhaps there was some half-forgotten association from childhood, but whatever the reason, the lovely little bottle went unloved for many years.

And then something magical happened. The way an old friend who has waited patiently in the wings while you date the more flashy suitors, I found myself thinking of Fracas and wondering if there might be something there, some magic spark. Magic indeed. Fracas was created by Germaine Cellier in 1948, one of the few female noses and a master of her craft. In addition to other memorable Piguet fragrances, she was the genius behind Balmain’s Vent Vert.

While Cellier used a perfume base in her creation of Fracas, a dense, luscious tuberose dominates the landscape and indeed, it appears that any other flowers are there to support tuberose in its leading role. Upon application, one notices immediately that Fracas is like no other. The citrus opening is miles away from the ordinary, lush and rich, rather than sparkling. As the tuberose unfolds, it seems impossibly large, buoyed by the presence of jasmine and violet, which lend to the fragrance’s deep indolic quality. There is an unctuous sensation to the fragrance, as though the tuberose had turned to syrup. While iris helps to temper the creation slightly, Fracas envelops you in a thick velvety haze that is indolic one moment and pure butter the next. Fracas is tuberose on the point of turning, with animalic references throughout enforced by the depths of oakmoss and woods.

Fracas feels both sophisticated and sensual. It is a fragrance which one must give oneself over to, as it is completely enveloping, to the point of rapture. And now that I have given myself over, there is no turning back.

Floral

Notes: bergamot, orange blossom, greens, peach, tuberose, jasmine, violet, iris, lily of the valley, carnation, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, and cedar.

Prada – Infusion d’Iris

Posted on April 1, 2013 by Leah

Prada – Infusion d’Iris

Nothing imparts a sense of springtime quite like iris. The bulbs which have lain dormant, nestled deep within the earth’s rich soil, seem to smell the warmth of the sun, a signal to commence pushing their shoots upward in order to crown the day with their regal flowers. With its ethereal, haunting beauty, iris has a foot firmly planted in two seasons: the beautiful floral aspect hails the coming Spring, while the cold, dusty and earthy aspects of this note recall the Winter months it has left behind.

In Infusion d’Iris, perfumer Daniela Andrier has beautifully captured this duality of iris, conveying the bright burst of green stems and floral notes, tempered by the richness of the still-cool earth. Infusion d’Iris opens with a lovely aldehyde burst of orange blossoms and mandarin, a delicious introduction to the green and soft floral quality of its iris heart. Although the fragrance maintains a light character throughout, the iris unfolds to the depth of its earthy roots, warmed by the richness of incense and woods.

While Infusion d’Iris has a modern sensibility, the iris tinged with what smells a bit like violet feels like a throwback to many beautiful vintage fragrances containing this note, notably Apres l’Ondee and L’Heure Bleue, though without their powdery feel. My sole criticism of this 2007 release is its light nature, which is especially gentle for an Eau de Parfum. While it possesses adequate longevity, the sillage is minimal and I found myself wanting to apply liberally and frequently.

Floral

Notes: mandarin, orange blossom, galbanum, iris, incense, benzoin, cedar, lentisc and vetiver

Chloe by Chloe

Posted on March 25, 2013 by Leah

Chloe Eau de Parfum by Chloe

Sometimes, having a passion for perfume can present its challenges. While I abided by the “signature scent” credo as a young woman, these days I find myself struggling just to maintain a “signature house”. Perhaps what gets me into trouble is my enthusiasm. Whenever I am exploring a new scent, I approach it with the same mindset as I would when meeting a new person. I keep an open, positive frame of mind and look for the good, for one never knows if a simple encounter could result in a lifelong friendship.

Every once in a while, however, a fragrance leaves me stumped. Which brings us to Chloe. This 2008 release was extremely successful and had achieved significant popularity. While this combination has not necessarily spelled perfume love for me in the past, I certainly had reason to hope. The notes certainly sounded promising: peony, lychee, freesia, rose, magnolia, muguet, amber and cedar. I was expecting a dense, intoxicating scent, with a burst of green, mellowing to warm sensual woods. Quite frankly, I thought it would smell as stunning as Clemence Poesy looked in the ads.

Chloe revealed itself to be a nondescript floral. Not bad per se, but then again, I set my fragrance bar a bit higher than that. Chloe wasn’t terrible, and I would rather wear this than La Vie Est Belle, but I would certainly not invest in it, aside from a trip to Nordstrom to retrieve samples.

There was a sense of familiarity which I initially could not place, but then it came to me. Chloe smelled a bit like bubble bath or perhaps shampoo, where the beauty and complexity of the scent is typically second to its efficacy as a product. About two hours later, just as I was having second thoughts about smelling like a bath product all day, I realized that I need not have worried, for Chloe had vanished. Given that Chloe was intended to be romantic, edgy, sexy and sensual, I can only imagine the brief that perfumers Michel Almairac and Amandine Marie were presented with. Perhaps someone gave them a shampoo brief by accident.

Floral

Notes: Peony, lychee, freesia rose, magnolia, muguet, amber and cedar.

Coty – Ex`cla-ma`tion

Posted on February 15, 2013 by Leah

Coty – Ex`cla-ma`tion

Continuing with the Coty theme this week, Ex`cla-ma`tion was launched by Coty in 1988 and is truly a product of its time. Ex`cla-ma`tion was created by Sophia Grojsman, the extraordinary nose behind such innovative fragrances as Estée Lauder White Linen (1978), Prescriptives Calyx (1987), Calvin Klein Eternity (1988) and Lancôme Trésor (1990). One of the hallmarks of Grojsman’s creative process is her ability to weave groundbreaking scents out of minimal ingredients. While it is not uncommon for perfumes to be a formulation of hundreds of different scents, Grojsman’s typical fragrance may contain fewer than 10.

While violet is not listed anywhere in the official notes, my overall impression of Ex`cla-ma`tion is of a powdery, light, woodsy violet with vanilla overtones. The fragrance opens with a fruity mix of apricot and peach, brightened by the effervescence of bergamot and green notes. The beauty of Ex`cla-ma`tion appears in its middle notes, a combination of orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, lily-of-the-valley and rose, which together create a light, innocent floral sensation. As the base notes appear, the main impression is of a lush vanilla rounded out by woods thanks to sandalwood and cedar. The woodsy impression is enhanced by notes of amber and musk, however, the fragrance maintains an overall floral character.

Ex`cla-ma`tion would be perfect for a young woman just beginning to explore the world of perfumery. It is delicate enough to be age-appropriate, and yet has sufficient depth to serve as a gateway perfume.

Floral

Notes: apricot, green notes, peach, bergamot, orris root, jasmine, heliotrope, lily-of-the-valley, rose, sandalwood, amber, cinnamon, musk, vanilla and cedar.

Elie Saab – Le Parfum

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Leah

Elie Saab – Le Parfum

Each morning, as I prepare for the day ahead, I run through an inner dialogue to determine what scent will accompany me through the day. I live in a warm climate which does not offer much temperature variation or seasonal variety, but I am still drawn to certain scents at certain times of the year. I often find however that my selection is based on my mood. Am I introspective or bold today? Do I have to make a presentation at work for which I want to feel confident? Perhaps it is raining and I crave the fragrance version of comfort food. I go through a similar ritual in the evenings when I return home in order to select a second fragrance for the evening. The converse is also true. There are certain fragrances which have the ability to impact my mood instantaneously, like a liquid mood-enhancer and I am careful to keep lots of these gems around.

I had been eagerly awaiting the release of Elie Saab’s fragrance which made its debut in mid-2011, though it took it a bit longer to reach my local Nordstrom for sampling purposes. Elie Saab, a Lebanese designer, is known for his elegant and romantic haute couture. His dresses feature beautiful, intricate lace and sweeping silhouettes, reminiscent of eras gone by. His designs have received numerous honors and he has distinguished himself as an established designer for various royals including the Crown Princesses of Sweden and Greece, as well as Queen Rania of Jordan. While beautiful execution in fashion is no guaranty of success in other mediums, certain houses such as Chanel and Dior have historically produced equally spectacular and memorable fragrances, so I had reason to hope.

Press releases revealed that the fragrance itself would be encased in a beautifully unpretentious crystal orb suggestive of a diamond, with the equally simple moniker of Le Parfum. The fragrance, created by Francis Kurkdjian who has designed for Narciso Rodriguez, Guerlain and Kenzo, was described as a flowery-woody composition featuring orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli, and rose honey. I tend to enjoy woody compositions, as well as several of Kurkdjian’s creations, so all seemed to point to an elegant, warm floral. In fact, I fantasized that the fragrance would be the equivalent of the dress below.

The opening started well enough with a fresh orange blossom that seemed like familiar territory. As I walked around the fragrance department in Nordstrom looking for a sample vial, I began sensing a pleasant swelling of jasmine and rose, leading me to believe that this fragrance might have potential. My excitement mounted. I filled up my vial and continued on my way. After about ten minutes, I started feeling irritable and almost angry for no reason whatsoever. I rechecked my wrist and there it was: a blast like a wounded trumpet played by an amateur at point-blank range. This assault bore no relation to the fragrance’s opening but definitely heralded its end. Suddenly, the beautiful crystal orb seemed more like a grenade I had pulled the pin from and forgotten about it until it exploded in my pocket. I have read that the dry-down features a nice clean musk which I might have enjoyed, but this one did not make it past the next ladies’ room sink.

Since I am by no means infallible, and since Elie Saab Le Parfum by Francis Kurkdjian won the 2012 French FIFI awards for Best Feminine Fragrance, Best Feminine Bottle, and best Feminine Media Campaign, you may wish to experience it for yourself at Nordstrom and Bloomingdales. I will stick to the creations Kurkdjian releases under his own name, which are excellent.

Floral

Notes: orange blossom, jasmine, cedar, patchouli and rose.

Knize Ten

Posted on January 25, 2013 by Leah

Knize Ten

I have found that some of my most passionate and enduring olfactory affairs have started out on an intense note along the lines of “what IS that?” While I am by no means drawn to flash, there are those fragrances whose openings are so unique as to create an indelible imprint, one that I often crave to smell again and again once the initial blast has subsided and the more delicate drydown commences. Like the sultry stranger who catches your eyes across the room with a smoldering glance, only later to become your devoted and domesticated bedfellow, so it is with Knize Ten.

Knize Ten is one of several fragrances introduced by the Knize fashion design house out of Austria. The fragrance made its debut in 1925 and is still in circulation. The current version is by most accounts fairly true to the original vintage version, making it a gem among fragrances. Indeed, even the clean and simple design of the bottle and crisp black and white packaging are both timeless and supremely modern. While Knize Ten (roughly pronounced kuh-knee-shuh) features the byline of “The Gentleman’s Toilet Water”, it is largely a misnomer, since it is not particularly “gentlemanly”, nor does it suffer from poor staying power. In fact, the opening notes of this reference leather fragrance are slightly reminiscent of a leather bomber jacket strutting around a gas station. Small wonder then that this was rumored to be the signature fragrance of none-other-than James Dean.

Knize Ten starts out with a slightly bitter citrus note of bergamot and petitgrain (derived from the leaves of the bitter orange tree), which to my nose has a greener smell further enhanced by a savory note of rosemary. The opening is potent and somewhat suggestive of gasoline. While this may sound off-putting, it is this very unique introduction to what ultimately becomes a warm and somewhat powdery vanillic leather, that I find most appealing. While the dry heart note is largely woody, for me the most prominent notes are a sharp patchouli and green jasmine which reinforce the rich leather aspect. While the Knize Ten “gentleman” may come on rather strong initially, he quickly shows his soft side. The sharpness of the leather is smoothed out by orris and deepened by ambergris and castor which lend it a slightly animalic, body smell. While François Coty and Vincent Roubert designed this as a men’s fragrance to accompany the elegant and slightly off-beat bespoke designs of Knize, this can easily be worn by a woman in the style of a Tabac Blond. The bracing opening and softening drydown feel like a lingering embrace from a not-so-gentlemanly gentleman.

Ultimate Leather

Notes: Lemon, bergamot, orange, petitgrain, rosemary, geranium, rose, cedar, orris, carnation, cinnamon, orange blossom, sandalwood, leather, musk, moss, patchouli, ambergris, castoreum and vanilla.

Quintessence

Perfume Reviews

Tag Archives: cedar

Serge Lutens – Douce Amere

Etat Libre d’Orange

Diptyque – Philosykos

Balmain – Ivoire

Robert Piguet – Fracas

Prada – Infusion d’Iris

Chloe by Chloe

Coty – Ex`cla-ma`tion

Elie Saab – Le Parfum

Knize Ten