Etat Libre D’Orange – Secretions Magnifiques

With a name like “Magnificent Secretions”, it was evident that Etat Libre D’Orange had every intention of creating a provocative fragrance that would push the boundaries of conventionality. According to Etat’s press information, the fragrance is intended to invoke the scent of blood, sweat, sperm and saliva and to represent the “unique moment when desire triumphs over reason”. Novel concept indeed. And while Secretions Magnifiques can indeed be a polarizing scent, it is not as offensive or animalic as one would anticipate.

The opening is extremely subtle – so much so that I immediately reapplied after smelling my wrist, thinking I had not applied a sufficient amount. The softness of the opening is immediately punctuated by a metallic, mineral smell reminiscent to that of blood. While this may not sound like the beginnings of a fragrant love affair, the strangeness and novelty of it is positively intriguing. The drydown is similarly subtle, where marine accords lend themselves to imaginative interpretations of various secretions. Given the strong sensual implications of the name, an animalic note is strangely absent. Animalic notes are often used to convey a “body smell” to a fragrance and are frequently very sexually suggestive, especially in vintage perfumery. It is as though the “secretions” were captured and removed from the host body, making them devoid of some of the warmth one might anticipate. The absence of a strong animalic accord in conjunction with an almost oily sensation from the metallic opening reminded me of more of “Mechanical Secretions” than magnificent ones.

While Secretions Magnifiques will certainly be a challenging fragrance for some, I found it very enjoyable in an abstract, almost intellectual way. Despite the oddity of the accords and intended scent, it is actually a fairly light fragrance, and I found myself continually burying my nose in my wrist to recapture this novel creation.  Thanks go out to the amazing Victoria at Bois de Jasmin for providing me with a sample as part of a contest!

Notes:

Iodized accord (fucus, azurone), adrenalin accord, blood accord, milk accord, orris, coconut, sandalwood and opoponax.