Chanel – Allure

While it is often the most likely culprit, reformulation alone is not responsible for changes in the perfumes we love. Something must be said for our own changing perceptions when it comes to our selection of perfumes. While today I swear equal allegiance to several perfume houses, as a young woman I was a Chanel girl through and through.

While seemingly unlikely for a die-hard Cristalle fan, after its release in 1996, Allure and I were inseparable. It was miles away from the lighter, citrus and floral Chanel fragrances I was accustomed to and yet not quite as opulent my mother’s Coco. Allure felt rich and sophisticated, like a camel-colored cashmere sweater worn with a string of pearls. After years of smelling intense orientals like Shalimar, Allure felt like a modern take on the genre, one suitable for a slightly younger generation.

The fragrance’s citrus opening quickly reveals a heart that is both fruity and floral, yet never sweet. As the fragrance develops, it warms and deepens considerably, unfolding into a creamy base of vanilla and woods.  While the EdP is richer and less sharp than the EdT, both possess an exuberant sophistication that always reminded me of Champagne and gold, sparkling, dry and bright.

My fascination with Allure turned into fascination with another scent, and as fate would have it, Allure was left behind for another new love. Ten years later, 2006 found me chasing Chypre Rouge and Jacques Polge’s new line-up for Chanel Les Exclusifs. In the face of this fierce competition, Allure felt scratchy and over-the-top. I would pass it by on the Chanel counter, amused with myself for having been so consumed with it.

Earlier this year, I pulled another old love out of the deepest corners of my perfume closet. I had been craving Dune and had re-stocked my supplies with some lucky finds on eBay. While my dear perfumista may see where this is headed, I still had not. I was in Nordstrom gathering samples when I absent-mindedly sprayed on Allure EdP, for old times sake, if you will. And in a moment of baffled enlightenment, I suddenly realized that Jacques Polge’s creation was a huge nod to its 1991 predecessor. And needless to say, the love affair was rekindled.

Oriental

Notes: Lemon, Bergamot, Mandarin, Peach, Rose, Jasmine, Water Lily, Peony, Magnolia, Orange Blossom, Sandalwood, Vetiver and Vanilla.