Scented Comfort

Posted on September 19, 2013 by Leah

Scented Comfort

When one is predisposed to surround themselves with fragrances, it is inevitable that this love affair with scent will intrude into the home. While I have read that many scent purists, and especially perfumers, prefer to keep their environments free of any scented products, scent can add an additional layer of beauty and comfort to a home.

In this vein, I love to keep a few scented candles around my home. They can help create a delightful ambiance on a rainy afternoon indoors, or add a special touch after a dinner party, enticing guests to linger. Mind you, I am not speaking of the supermarket variety, although some of those do possess a nice fragrance that will do in a pinch. Better to invest in a few good candle products, which if cared for and used judiciously, will last several months.

Aside from the obvious choices of Guerlain and Diptyque, some of my favorites are those produced by the French company Carrière Frères Industrie. Carrière Frères was founded in 1884 by two entrepreneurial brothers who were passionate about wax-making and craftsmanship. Their passion led them to combine the best quality, pure vegetal wax and wicks for a candle that would burn longer and cleaner, without unwanted smoke. The paraffin-free wax formula blends more easily with fragrance and seems to release it more uniformly as well. The duo was awarded a gold medal in 1889 for their innovative church candles and night-lights, and has been the official supplier to the Basilique du Sacré Coeur ever since.

The Carrière Frères line carries numerous soliflores and other botanical scents in elegant white glass holders bearing an image of the scent and its scientific name. The candles give off a lovely odor even when left unlit and the holders can be “recycled” for other uses once the candle has been used. I love to use mine to hold cotton balls or makeup brushes. While there are too many wonderful scents to choose from, Iris Sibirica, Viola Odorata, Gardenia Tahitensis and of course Lavandula Angustifolia, are among my favorites. The candle box is also gorgeous – elegant and minimalist.

The website offers points of purchase (I purchased mine from one of the online retailers) and helpful tips for caring for your candle. A friend of mine offered the best tip for candle care, however, one which assists in prolonging the scent. Once you have finished your candle session, simply put a plate on the candle holder to snuff it out. This helps the wax dry evenly and allows the scent to last longer. I have been using this technique on all my scented candles and have been very pleased with the results. According to Carrière Frères, the candles have an average burn time of 45 to 50 hours.

Carrière Frères Industrie

Chanel Les Exclusifs – Bel Respiro

Posted on September 12, 2013 by Leah

Chanel Les Exclusifs – Bel Respiro

No summer would be complete without the easy elegance of Chanel’s Bel Respiro. Released in 2007 with 5 other Les Exclusifs as part of the original line-up, Bel Respiro is a study in green. It possesses simplicity and sophistication in equal measures, qualities which are woefully absent from many modern releases. Indeed, although it possesses a far more subtle character, Bel Respiro seems to be more a contemporary of its elder sisters Chanel No 19 and Cristalle.

Given the number of show-stopping fragrances in the Les Exclusifs line-up, it took some time before Bel Respiro caught my full attention. In fact, it took something quite different than repeated sampling for me to fall in love. Named after Coco Chanel’s gorgeous chateau in a Parisian suburb, Bel Respiro was depicted in the 2009 cinematic release Coco and Igor Stravinsky. The film, which seeks to recount a love affair between Chanel and the Russian composer, is largely set in the beautiful chateau, which she “lent” to Stravinksky and his family so that he might compose his music without the pressures of earning a living and facilitate their amorous liaisons.

I have read that Jacques Polge drew his inspiration from various parts of Mademoiselle Chanel’s life when dreaming up the fragrance line. In the case of Bel Respiro, as in many of the other Les Exclusifs, he appears to have perfectly channeled her sensibilities. It was there, in those scenes of the bucolic green grounds and magnificent house that the fragrance suddenly came alive for me. Bel Respiro, which translates roughly as “beautiful breath” (as in a breath of air) captures both the soothing effects of nature and beauty on the human psyche, as well as the luxuriousness of leisure time spent outdoors.

Bel Respiro is nature rendered with the elegance of Chanel. From the crisp green opening reminiscent of Chanel 19, Bel Respiro softens into a gossamer light green floral, with a touch of the fine herbs France is famous for. I find the fragrance to be changeable, sometimes giving an impression of green tea and sometimes a light subtle rose before warming into the softest hint of leather. There are whispers of myrrh in the drydown, but these are subtle enough that they only seem to lend to an overall impression of soft smoke and incense. While not mentioned anywhere in the notes, I have the sense of an iris coming in and out of focus. Overall, the fragrance possesses an expansive, airy quality – a beautiful breath indeed. I can easily imagine Mademoiselle Chanel strolling through the grounds of Bel Respiro at dusk, taking in the scents of her garden and the beauty of her surroundings, wild grasses crunching underfoot.

While Bel Respiro was one of my later acquisitions of Les Exclusifs, I fear I may finish my bottle long before all others. The fragrance features a light and personal sillage, and requires heavy application to get it off the ground so to speak. Surprisingly, it is fairly tenacious on skin despite being a low volume fragrance. This is one of the Les Exclusifs that I will pray for a parfum version of. While it is gorgeous as an EdT, it would be heavenly as an extrait.

Be sure to check out these movie stills from Architecture of Film, as well as the film in its entirety. While it got mixed reviews, the scenery is astounding and a must for a Chanelphile.

Green floral

Notes: Crushed leaves, Rosemary, Thyme, Rose, Lilac, Hyacinth, Green Tea, Aromatic Grasses, Myrrh, Leather.

La Légende de Shalimar

Posted on September 10, 2013 by Leah

La Légende de Shalimar

This past week, the folks over at Guerlain/LVMH released the most stunning marketing piece for one of its most iconic perfumes: Shalimar. The mini-film (here), produced by the uber-talented French filmmaker Bruno Aveillan (who produced a similar piece for Cartier), makes real the tale behind the fragrance: the love story between Shah Jahan and Mumtaz Mahal.

While there can be no argument that the imagery is stunning and will certainly draw attention to the fragrance and the once mighty house of Guerlain, I could not help but watch the film with a sense of irony and regret. I have posted here about my difficulties with Shalimar in its modern version. I find the modern Shalimar to be aggressive, brash and scratchy, while the original possessed the warmth and depth of liquid gold. While re-formulation of fragrances and the unavailability of important materials certainly plays a role in the current state of perfumery, there can be no denying the fact that the quality of materials has decreased in many of our favorite fragrances.

This factor is exacerbated by the ever-increasing marketing budgets that must be justified, often at the expense of the underlying product. In fact, the cost of the materials in a perfume is often only a few dollars, while the majority of the expense put into producing a bottle of fragrance is in fact that of the marketing machine. How then can we interpret the fate of Shalimar and indeed the house of Guerlain? Production costs for the movie were rumored to be in excess of $45 million. Given the current state of Shalimar, this can only mean two things in my opinion: 1) either Guerlain/LVMH is aware that the fragrance in its current form is not up to par and needs marketing assistance if it is going to survive and seduce future generations or 2) another re-formulation or decrease in quality lies ahead.

The greatest irony of the release is that Shah Jahan built the Taj Mahal upon Mumtaz Mahal’s death, so the beautiful monument commemorated in the film is actually a memorial to the dead. Perhaps then this monumental film also commemorates the death of the beloved, in this case, the beauty and splendour of the original Shalimar. For my part, I would prefer advertising along the lines of this 1933 image below, if it meant that funds would be expended where they should: to restore the fragrance to its former, impossibly perfect, glory.

Hermes – Un Jardin sur le Nil

Posted on September 5, 2013 by Leah

Hermes – Un Jardin sur le Nil

There are certain fragrances which elicit an involuntary story full of romance and wonder, thanks to the beauty of their creation. Unfortunately for Un Jardin sur le Nil, anyone who has read Chandler Burr’s “The Emperor of Scent” will likely recall the tale of Hermes sending its nose Jean-Claude Ellena on an expedition to Egypt with an entire team in tow, to capture the scents of the exotic landscape. While this episode does show the more banal side of perfumery, the hilarity of this scenario does nothing to diminish this beautful creation.

Jean-Claude Ellena commenced his olfactory travels in 2003 with Un Jardin en Mediterranee, a fig/woods creation which invoked the gardens of the Mediterranean. Un Jardin sur le Nil, second in the series and created in 2005, takes us to the exotic reaches of the Nile, if only in name. Chandler Burr explains here how Ellena had to abandon his original vision for an Egyptian-inspired fragrance upon his arrival, as the actual smells were less dark and opulent than his imagination had suggested. What Ellena was ultimately inspired by was the many mango trees growing in the area which were covered in young green mango, which has a distinctly different smell than ripe mango – tart, with a bit of bite and slightly dusty.

The fragrance starts out with a bright citrus note that is positively bursting. While not listed anywhere in the notes, my impression is of a juicy grapefruit exploding under the pressure of a sharp knife. The grapefruit note unfolds into a green mango note, fruity and tangy but devoid of sweetness, which in my opinion is one of the aspects that makes this fragrance so successful.

As the citrus dies down, there is a light floral impression which lightens the fragrance into a familiar Jean-Claude Ellena category. While light, the fragrance possesses an underlying complexity which becomes more apparent in the base of rich sycomore woods. Despite the richness of the mango and woods, the fragrance maintains a dry character which keeps it beautiful and delicate without becoming too sweet.

As with many of Ellena’s creations, the simplicity of the notes belie the complexity of the resulting fragrance, as Ellena has proven himself to be a master of illusion. Un Jardin sur le Nil possesses a strong but comfortable potency and sillage and its character is perfectly suitable for a man or a woman.

Citrus Woods

Notes: Green Mango, Lotus, Aromatic Rushes, Incense, Sycamore Wood.

Creed – Fleurissimo

Posted on September 3, 2013 by Leah

Creed – Fleurissimo

There are few women who have walked this earth that come close to possessing the elegance, beauty and talent of Grace Kelly. A shining star of American film and theater until her fairytale marriage to Prince Rainier III of Monaco, she conducted herself with such finesse that she truly lived up to both her name and her title.

Small wonder then that the perfume house of Creed consented to Prince Rainier III’s wish to commission a fragrance for his young bride’s wedding day. The result, Fleurissimo, was a floral bouquet centered around tuberose, the heady, white flower responsible for the likes of Fracas.

While tuberose can be a difficult note for some, it is most successful in fragrances that harness its lush, buttery quality and use it to bring depth to a fragrance. Unfortunately, Fleurissimo accomplishes none of this. After a promising bergamot opening, Fleurissimo, which translates roughly to “extreme flower” is anything but. Instead, it is a pinched, slightly synthetic-smelling white floral which (thankfully) dissipates quickly.

I wish I could transport myself back to 1956 and smell James Henry Creed the Fifth’s original creation. I have to imagine that the vintage fragrance privileged enough to grace the Princess’s wrist must have been superior to what is produced today. Sadly, the modern Fleurissimo does not do justice to the beauty and decorum of its muse.

Notes: Bergamot, Tuberose, Bulgarian Rose, Violet, Iris, Ambergris.

Hermès – Un Jardin en Mediterranée

Posted on August 22, 2013 by Leah

Hermès – Un Jardin en Mediterranée

No summer reveries of fig fragrances would be complete without the beauty of Jean-Claude Ellena’s 2003 Un Jardin en Mediterranée. While I would be loathe to try and select a favorite fig scent (or a favorite fragrance for that matter), Un Jardin en Mediterranée takes me the closest to a Mediterranean summer fantasy.

Un Jardin combines all the elements of my olfactory vacation in a bottle: the salty warmth of the sea air, the sparkling bite of citrus, the earthy green tang of figs and the subtle magic of a stroll through a grove of trees warmed by a day full of sunshine.

After!

Un Jardin en Mediterranée is fairly linear. The citrus opening has just a touch of sweetness, a hint of the juicy fig to come. While one might expect all of this fruit to be cloying for a summer-themed fragrance, the overall effect is very light, true to Ellena’s style. All throughout, woods and light musk lend a subtle twilight quality to the fragrance which keep it subdued and elegant.

Un Jardin en Mediterranée wears close to the skin, lending a sense of intimacy to its character. It is light and fairly uncomplicated, making it a perfect companion for the carefree days of summer. I can almost feel the warm summer breeze blowing through my hair…

Fruity Woods

Notes: Citrus Notes, Orange Blossom, White Floral Notes, Fig, Woods, Musk.

Diptyque – Philosykos

Posted on August 20, 2013 by Leah

Diptyque – Philosykos

I love the Diptyque line for its ability to marry earthy, natural scents with a refined minimalist elegance. Most of the house’s fragrances work equally well on a man or a woman, and Philsykos is no exception.

Rather than creating an uber-fruity, over the top syrupy fig, Diptyque seems to draw its inspiration from the tree as a whole. From the earthy bark and woody stems, right to the green and slightly dusty fruit. Like other Diptyque fragrances it possesses a fairly realistic green note, reminiscent of wet blades of grass and takes me back to childhood summers spent outdoors.

The drydown has Olivia Giacobetti written all over it, from the soft veiled layers of fig with coconut, with a gentle hint of sweetness which is never overpowering, even on the most humid of days. While Philosykos is a wonderful summertime scent, it works equally well in the winter months, a reminder of things to come. While I adore the extra sharp bite of the EdT, the EdP concentration is quite lovely, though perhaps a bit rounder than the original – think Sauvignon Blanc versus Chardonnay.

It’s astounding to think that this 1996 release is nearly twenty years old, but perhaps this timeless quality is what makes Diptyque fragrances so successful. Ironically, the Diptyque collection just showed up at my local Nordstrom’s, finally making this house available to a wider audience.

Woods

Notes: Fig Leaf, Fig, Coconut, Green Notes, Cedar, Woody Notes, Fig Tree.

Guerlain – Aqua Allegoria Figue Iris

Posted on August 15, 2013 by Leah

Guerlain – Aqua Allegoria Figue Iris

By now you have surely come to the conclusion that perfume is one of my guilty pleasures. The way other people reach for a cocktail when they get home to unwind, I grab a bottle of a different kind and apply liberally to melt away the stresses of my day. I am sure all perfumistas have some fragrance in their wardrobe that is a guiltier pleasure than they would like to admit to. For me, it’s Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Figue Iris.

While the Aqua Allegoria line started out as an exercise in minimalism, somewhere along the way (i.e. after the departure of Mathilde Laurent), the entire project went haywire, resulting in odd and sometimes abrasive compositions. With a few exceptions, such as this here, many of the fragrances had a light, delicate character that made them good introductory Guerlains.

Not so with Figue Iris. The first time I smelled it, I was slightly horrifed, as I was expecting a light green fig enhanced by magical iris dust. What I got instead was a dense, surreal impression of the inner pulp of a fig: juicy, ripe, heavy and pungent which segued into a very lush (and slightly plastic) iris, with a hint of violet deepened by a rich vanilla. No subtlety, no light romance, just FIG and IRIS in mile high pink letters.

A f ew months went by and I was sorting samples and came across it again, and applied it absent-mindedly. This time I liked it, almost in spite of myself. I admitted my bizarre newfound affection to a fellow collector who was slightly horrified as well, but we agreed that it was no worse than any other fruity floral on the market. I finished my sample and found myself longing for this plush, plastic fig. Before I knew it, the search was on to try and track down a bottle because this 2008 release had long been discontinued.

While I cannot help but wish Guerlain would have served this up as a traditional perfume and invested the resources to make it more complex, when it comes down to it, it smells really good. While it lacks the sophistication of say a Diptyque or Hermes fig, ironically, this is one of the fragrances that I get the most compliments on when I wear it, which is on rare occasions given that I had to track my bottle down halfway around the world from a seller in Spain who had one to spare.

Fruity Floral

Notes: Citrus, Violet, Iris, Fig, Milky Notes, Wood Notes, Vanilla, Vetiver.

Summer Inspiration

Posted on August 13, 2013 by Leah

Summer Inspiration

One of my favorite parts of summer is seeing what delicious fruit pops up at the market. While in most parts of the US, one can purchase a variety of fruits year round, it is quite different than eating fruit at the peak of its season.

One of my favorite summertime treats is fresh figs. While I content myself with the dried variety year-round, nothing compares to the fleshy, succulent goodness of a fresh fig.

As you may well imagine, my love of figs extends to fig-scented products and of course, perfumes. Over the next week I will be posting reviews of fragrances built around a fig note. Are there any fig fragrances you love?

Guerlain – L’Heure de Nuit

Posted on August 9, 2013 by Leah

Guerlain – L’Heure de Nuit

Released in 2012, in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of the monumental L’Heure Bleue, L’Heure de Nuit is Thierry Wasser’s homage to the classic. The fragrance is striking, a deep blue-hued juice in a classic bee bottle, and yet it seems an odd choice of presentation for such a prestigious house.

While I applaud the effort on the part of houses like Guerlain to introduce their classics to a younger audience, once you have mastered perfection, it is difficult to match. In fact, any fragrance so sublime as L’Heure Bleue is sure to make anything, let alone a modern flanker, pale in comparison. Had I never smelled L’Heure Bleue, I may have fallen in love with L’Heure de Nuit immediately, but given the circumstances, it is difficult not to make comparisons.

L’Heure de Nuit starts off smelling distinctly like L’Heure Bleue, the gorgeous, luminous orange blossom unfolding into a anisic, almond confection that is pure heaven on earth. But much like Beethoven’s Ode to Joy loses some of its strength when played apart from the rest of the Ninth Symphony, L’Heure de Nuit feels slightly trite without the heft of the original. Absent is the rich powdery veil and the lush oriental base. In its stead, L’Heure de Nuit gets a dose of clean musk, making it feel lighter, cleaner and more modern than its refined older sister. If L’Heure Bleue is an impressionist painting, deep with densely applied colors, L’Heure de Nuit is a starter pack of magic markers: colorful and bright, but light and transient.

While the fragrance is lovely, it lacks the depth which gives vintage Guerlains their classic tenor. The fragrance has good longevity and sillage but again, lighter than the original. While I am thrilled that one of the most beautiful fragrances of all time has not been forgotten, I would prefer to have the original reincarnated in its true form, though as one can tell from the abominable quality of the current version of L’Heure Bleue, the IFRA has made that impossible.

Classic Reinterpreted

Notes: Bergamot, Orange Blossom, Iris, Heliotrope, Jasmine, Rose, Musk, Sandalwood

Quintessence

Perfume Reviews

Category Archives: Reviews

Scented Comfort

Chanel Les Exclusifs – Bel Respiro

La Légende de Shalimar

Hermes – Un Jardin sur le Nil

Creed – Fleurissimo

Hermès – Un Jardin en Mediterranée

Diptyque – Philosykos

Guerlain – Aqua Allegoria Figue Iris

Summer Inspiration

Guerlain – L’Heure de Nuit