Heeley – Iris de Nuit

Located just north of Manhattan’s Madison Square Park district, in the NoMad Hotel, is an incredible boutique called  Kitsuné. The NoMad recently underwent a major overhaul, where it was restored to its former European splendor thanks to the careful eye of architect Jacques Garcia. The shop, like the clothing line it houses, is an exercise in elegant restraint. In addition to its super-chic clothing line, Kitsuné has some incredible accessories, ranging from bags to fragrances. Prominently featured in the shop was the full line of Heeley Eau de Parfum fragrances, which I happily sampled with the assistance of its  happy, helpful staff.

While I was not able to get samples of all the fragrances, they left strong impressions. Esprit du Tigre is an innovative melange of camphor and mint, buoyed by woods and spices. As its name suggests, Verveine d’Eugène is a bright lemon verbena, softened by jasmine and light musk. Sel Marin, starts off with a lemony freshness, which morphs into a salty aquatic, that reminded me slightly of Secretions Magnifiques. Ophelia has the depth of white florals, lightened by green and aquatic notes.

My favorite of the lot, which I was fortuitously able to get a sample of, was Iris de Nuit. Heeley’s interpretation of one of my favorite notes does not disappoint. Heeley combines the chilly grey notes of iris with violet, angelica and ambrette, giving it a fresh and lively feeling. Ambrette has a fantastic, unique plummy scent, which those familiar with Chanel’s Égoïste and No 18 may be familiar with. Rather than shy away from the rooty, carrot-like impression common to orris root, Heeley takes a bold move and emphasizes the sensation by adding carrot seed. At this stage, Heeley’s Iris de Nuit reminds me somewhat of Serge Lutens masterpiece Iris Silver Mist, but the comparison ends there.

In the drydown, Iris de Nuit takes a sensual turn, revealing a warm, luxurious base of cedar and grey amber. While many of my favorite iris fragrances suffer from poor sillage and longevity, Heeley is positively perfect, with nice projection that feels sensual and yet elegant. If you are in NYC, be sure to check out Kitsuné and the Heeley line.  If NYC is not in your travel plans anytime soon, Heeley fragrances can be purchased at several online retailers or here.

Notes: Angelica seed, ambrette, iris, violet, carrot seed, grey amber and white cedar.

Maison Kitsuné at NoMad

1170 Broadway, (212) 481-6010; kitsune.fr.