Diptyque – L’Eau

There are many fragrances, beloved though they may be, which are clearly the product of the olfactory fashions of their time. Whether it be an over-abundance of aldehydes, oakmoss or civet, like tiny wrinkles gathering at the corners of a woman’s face, they serve as tell-tale signs of age. I am repeatedly amazed then by the timelessness of certain fragrances and of certain houses, which continue to enchant as the years go by.

While Diptyque came on to the fragrance scene in the 1960s, one would be hard-pressed to tie them to a specific era. Their simple flacons with spare black and white lettering are at once indisputably modern, and yet suggest a bit of Roman antiquity in their designs. No single fragrance in the Diptyque line-up better exemplifies this quality more so than L’Eau, the house’s first personal fragrance which was launched in 1968.

Somewhat ironically named, L’Eau is a somewhat polarizing rendition of pot-pourri, with its rich notes of clove and cinnamon. If you are not a fan of these notes, stop right here, for while they temper over the life of the fragrance, they never dissipate completely. Indeed, the opening is reminiscent of the spice and sizzle of red hots, the tiny heart-shaped candies so popular on Valentine’s Day as an emblem of romantic love. As the fragrance unfurls and warms like branches over a fire, the initial spicy burst mellows into a clove-tinged rose, warmed by the richness of woods. A hint of soapiness gives the fragrance a retro appeal.

L’Eau is without a doubt a cold-weather scent, in part for the associations which the rich notes bring to mind, but also because it can be somewhat cloying in warmer weather. In some respects L’Eau clearly seems like a child of the Sixties, where social boundaries were being broken and wearing pot-pourri would seem très anti-establishment. Every time I catch its lovely spicy scent rising up however I have strong visions of a distant past; of winter hoods trapping the scent of mulled wine and homemade holiday gifts, as the bearer traveled through the cold to personally deliver holiday cheer.

If one can call what feels like a 500-year old fragrance recipe “retro”, then it is this timeless quality that makes L’Eau so appealing. And similar to other fragrances which contain notes with strong seasonal associations such as this and this, once these notes are seen in a new context, the result is unforgettable. Wearing it today feels supremely modern, much in the way that the pop-art of the mid-1950s still retains a modern edge.

Notes: Cinnamon, Clove, Geranium, Sandalwood, Rose

Image courtesy of Bragmayer and Guerlain

For the past 160 years, Guerlain’s Bee Bottle has epitomized luxury and distinction in the world of perfumery. The Bee has served as a long-standing symbol of royalty, but since the day its image was emblazoned upon a bottle of Eau de Cologne Impériale offered to Empress Eugénie, then-wife of Napoleon, it has become nearly synonymous with the venerable House of Guerlain.

It is fitting then that in commemoration of its 160-year anniversary, it is the Bee Bottle itself which will be receiving the royal treatment. Following are links to a short video produced by Guerlain here, as well as a post describing the many new faces of the Bee here. The designs are so special, it is impossible to pick a favorite.

Readers will note that new Bee Bottle collection was not included in my list of favorite holiday gifts posted here earlier this week. While they are certain to be high on anyone’s list after a glimpse, they come with a price tag which is truly fit for royalty!

Fragrant Gift Ideas

We are in the midst of the holiday season! Stores everywhere have decorated themselves, hoping to tempt shoppers into finding the perfect gift within. Below are some of my top picks for the season.

Yves Saint Laurent Nu is back! Originally launched in 2001, this gorgeous, dusky oriental was sadly discontinued. Nu is one of my favorite incense fragrances and has been in heavy rotation this winter season. Rumored to be a flop in part due to faulty packaging (a metallic, violet-grey hockey puck of a dispenser which sadly leaked) Nu has received an elegant makeover. Let’s hope that the beauty and originality of the Jacques Cavallier creation is still intact. Nu can be purchased directly from the YSl site here.

Chanel No 5 Intense Bath Oil – this luxurious bath oil scented with one of the most beloved fragrances of all times is deeply nourishing for the skin and feels positively sinful. Add it to the bath or apply directly to the skin for a rich veil of scent. A little goes a long way and since the bath oil comes in a large 8.4 ounce flacon, it could last you for many holidays to come. The last time I checked it was sold out on the Chanel website but was available at my local Nordstrom.

Scented candles always make a thoughtful holiday gift, especially if you are uncertain about the recipient’s favorite fragrance (or in the case of many of my readers, she already has too many fragrances!). I have already waxed poetic here on the candles made by Carrière Frères Industrie and this season they have a new Cinnamon candle available here, the perfect scent for creating a warm holiday ambience at home.

Another favorite candle for the home comes from Restoration Hardware. The French Oak scent immediately transports me to the sitting room of a glorious chateau in the Loire Valley, while Belgian Linen has all the elegance and solemnity of a Gothic cathedral at vespers.

Marni by Marni has been one of my favorite releases of the year. A subtle mix of rose and incense, it is a perfect go-to fragrance for all occasions. Marni is joyful enough for holiday mornings spent with friends and family and soft-spoken enough for the office once the reality of the new year beckons. At least you will smell divine once you are back at work! Marni is available at most major department stores.